Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge

One of the great joys of returning to the Midwest has been the opportunity to rediscover the natural heritage of my homeland. After 10 years of living in one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet, I confess I’d become a bit of a bio-snob. It was hard to imagine Kansas and Missouri would have much to offer in terms of wildlife destinations and hiking opportunities. But I’m happy to find myself proven wrong.

This year my husband and I took advantage of Easter weekend to visit Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge. Just a couple hours north of Kansas City, Missouri, Squaw Creek protects wetland habitats created by the meandering Missouri River. It is surrounded by loess soil mounds, low sharp peaks of rich soil left by the last glaciers. With just 7,350 acres, the reserve provides refuge for at least 277 species of birds, with another 33 reported as ‘accidentals’.

When we arrived Friday afternoon, we hiked the Loess Bluff Trail. Located behind the visitor’s center, this path climbs up about 200 feet and affords spectacular views of the wetlands below. Under the clear sky, the expanse of water looked like a silver-blue mirror dusted with the shadows of ducks, geese, reeds and slow currents. Coming down the trail behind the visitor’s center we were treated to several fun sightings, including tufted titmice, a red bellied woodpecker, black-capped chickadees and the white-breasted nuthatch. We also had the pleasure of seeing a rabbit hiding in the brush, its furry body absolutely still, its long ears rotated back and focused intently on us. Not too far away we heard the loud gawky call of a pheasant followed by the rapid beating of its wings, but unfortunately we were unable to spot the bird.

Evening on the waterfront relaxed our spirits. We watched a full red sun set over the tranquil pools. Tiny midges filled the air. They looked and swarmed like mosquitoes, but fortunately for us they were not at all blood thirsty. Mallards, northern shovelers, American coots and snow geese were the most common birds on the waters that day. Their clucks were numerous but quiet. At dusk, barn swallows swooped down over the waters to feed on the insects, and a small group of deer appeared in the open fields behind us. Our last sighting was a barred owl perched in the trees at the park’s exit.

Saturday we drove the 10-mile auto tour loop. To truly enjoy the loop, you have to take your time – stop often, get out of the car, walk along the edge of the ponds and take the short trail out to the observation point between Eagle and Pelican Pools. On our second afternoon, the species count topped 30, including the pine siskin, blue winged teal, the lesser scaup, the hooded merganser and a ring-necked pheasant. We also observed turtles, several muskrats, an otter and a beaver. On the west side of Pelican Pool, we had the extraordinary privilege of seeing a pair of bald eagles nesting. Just as we arrived, one of the parents soared in with a freshly caught fish for the nestlings.

Since many migratory birds make their stop at Squaw Creek, visitors are likely to see different species at any given time of year. We plan to go back to see the summer, fall and winter flocks. Squaw Creek is a backyard treasure for the Kansas City area. If you haven’t yet had a chance to see it, I highly recommend you do.

For more information, visit the park’s website at http://www.fws.gov/refuges/profiles/index.cfm?id=33560